Located in the center of the Old World, Istanbul is one of the world's great cities famous for its historical monuments and magnificent scenic beauties. It is the only city in the world which spreads over two continents: it lies at a point where Asia and Europe are separated by a narrow strait - the Bosphorus. Istanbul has a history of over 2,500 years, and ever since its establishment on this strategic junction of lands and seas, the city has been a crucial trade center.

The historic city of Istanbul is situated on a peninsula flanked on three sides by the Sea of Marmara, the Bosphorus and the Golden Horn. It has been the capital of three great empires, the Roman, Byzantine and Ottoman empires, and for more than 1,600 years over 120 emperors and sultans ruled the world from here. No other city in the world can claim such a distinction.

During its development, the city was enlarged four times, each time the city walls being rebuilt further to the west.

Surrounded by 5th century Roman city walls and stretching over seven hills, Istanbul is adorned by the masterpieces of Turkish art, the great mosques of the Sultans that crown the hills. The city presents an exquisite, majestic and serene silhouette from all directions. The Golden Horn, which is a very secure natural harbor, has played a significant role in the development of the city.

Fortune provided such advantages to Istanbul as a location at a junction where the main overland routes reach the sea, an easily defensible peninsula, an ideal climate, a rich and generous nature, control of the strategic Bosphorus, and a central geographical position in the ancient world.

As a capital of empires, the city was not only an administrative, but also a religious center. The Patriarchate of Eastern Christians has been headquartered here since its establishment, and the largest early churches and monasteries of the Christian world rose in this city on top of the pagan temples. Within a century after the city was conquered, it was enriched with mosques, palaces, schools, baths and other architectural monuments that gave it a Turkish character, while some of the existing churches in ruins were repaired, altered and converted into mosques.Between the 16th century when the Ottoman sultans acquired themselves the title of the "Caliph of Islam" and 1924, the first year of the Republic, Istanbul was also the headquarters of the Caliphate. More Jews settled in Istanbul than any other port, and here they built themselves a new and happy life after they were rescued from Spain by the Turks in the 15th century. Istanbul has always been a city of tolerance where mosques, churches and synagogues existed side by side. The city was adorned with a large number of dazzling and impressive works even during the period of decline of the Ottomans.

During this time, the influence of European art made itself felt in the new palaces, while the northern slopes of the Golden Horn, Galata and Beyoglu districts assumed a European character. Even when the Empire, which was a party to World War I, collapsed and the young Republic that replaced it moved the capital to Ankara, Istanbul did not lose its significance.

The haphazard development that began in the years following World War II and accelerated in the 1950's has unfortunately had a negative impact on the fabric of the old city, and while old wooden houses disappeared rapidly, concrete buildings proliferated. Istanbul experienced a population explosion due to immigration, and within a very short period it expanded far beyond the historical city walls. The areas inside the walls were invaded by workshops, mills and offices; even the new thoroughfares could not solve the traffic problems, and the inadequacy of the infrastructure gave rise to a sea pollution problem, starting with the Golden Horn.

With the initiatives for saving the city in the 1980s, Istanbul embarked on a process of restructuring on a scale unseen in its history.Thousands of buildings along the Golden Horn were demolished to make way for a green belt on its shores; parks and gardens were built on the land claimed by filling up the beaches of the Sea of Marmara. In order to prevent sea pollution drainage systems were completed and physical and biological wastewater treatment plants were erected; the use of natural gas for heating has considerably reduced air pollution.

 

Efforts are continuing for the restoration of the Roman city walls, and Beyoglu, the main artery, was rescued by building a newavenue. Improvements were made in ihe general cleaning, maintenance, garbage collection fields and these services are now at Western European standards. Ring roads cross the Bosphorus over two suspension bridges to connect the two continents. The European side has now a fast tramway system and a subway, and comfort and speed has been ensured in sea transportation with the hydrofoil terminals built on the seashores. All industrial establishments on the historic peninsula have been moved to new facilities in the suburbs, and the new international bus terminal has reduced traffic intensity. The old jail and the first large concrete building of the city were given over to tourism and converted into 5-star hotels.

The city is growing dynamically and developing at full speed on an east-west axis along the shores of the Marmara.

BIRD'S EYE VIEW

The seas and the lands created, with a great harmony, the geography of Istanbul like a work in lace, which divides naturally into four regions: the old town and Galata on the opposite shores of the Golden Horn, and the two sides of the Bosphorus. What used to be small individual villages on the Bosphorus are now united to form a whole. The inhabited areas stretching along the shores of the Marmara, the smallest sea on earth, indicate the vast dimensions the city has now attained.

The Old Town is spread on the seven hills of a triangular promontory encircled by 22 km of city walls. This is the historical settlement that at different times has been called Byzantium, New or Second Rome, Constantinopolis or simply "Polis" (The City). The walls along the Marmara and the Golden Horn were mostly destroyed over the ages, but the main walls on the landward side are still standing in relatively good condition.

The Old Town is spread on the seven hills of a triangular promontory encircled by 22 km of city walls. This is the historical settlement that at different times has been called Byzantium, New or Second Rome, Constantinopolis or simply "Polis" (The City). The walls along the Marmara and the Golden Horn were mostly destroyed over the ages, but the main walls on the landward side are still standing in relatively good condition. The wide western side of the triangular peninsula is bound by the land walls, the other 2 sides by the sea walls. The walls and embankments of the Topkapi Palace form the apex to the east. The latter is situated on the first of the seven hills, which is the widest and longest. The Topkapi Palace is an imposing complex surrounded by walls, like a city within a city, and it is now a museum in which extremely valuable and important works are displayed. Hagia Eirene, the incomparable venue of festival events, and the Istanbul Archeological Museum, unique among its peers, are located in the first courtyard of the palace. One of the eighth wonders of the world, Hagia Sophia Museum, Sultan Ahmet (the Blue) Mosque whose beauties merit its fame, the Roman Hippodrome and the Basilica Cistern are also to be found on the plateau of the first hill.

The second hill houses the oldest and largest covered bazaar, Nuruosmaniye Mosque, and Cemberlitas (the Column of C ons tan tine), a gift to the city when it became the capital of the Roman Empire.

The Suleymaniye Mosque and the Fatih Mosque rise, respectively, on the third and fourth hills, and a Roman aqueduct stretch between the two hills. §ehzade Mosque and the Municipality Building are also here. The gigantic open Roman cisterns that used to supply water to the city are located on the other higher hills. Sultan Selim Mosque is situated on the fifth hill and the Kariye Museum on the slope of the sixth hill. The present-day roads start from Hagia Sophia square, pass over the ridges of these hills, and fork to reach the different city gates, all following the former Roman routes.

The land walls with three-course battlements that form the western boundary are splendid examples of Roman military architecture. The walls run down to the Golden Horn in Eyup in the north. Eytip Sultan Mosque, which gives the district its name, is identified as the first mosque constructed in the city.

The Golden Horn is a narrow inlet, 8 km long and shaped like a horn. The best point to watch the incomparable silhouette of Istanbul is from the sea, aboard the ships that sail from the Asian side or from the entrance to the Golden Horn.

The polluted waters of the Golden Horn have been treated, and some of its original fish population has now returned, Surrounded by the parks and gardens around the Golden Horn, they await the day when the dockyards will be removed from these waters. The Orthodox Patriarchate and the small, charming Bulgarian Church are now connected to the opposite shore with the old Galata Bridge which was relocated to this area. The new museum of the Koc family in this district exhibits various interesting objects.

The Galata region and the adjoining Pera present a view that is quite different from the old town. This district, symbolized by the Galata tower and ascending slowly up the hill toward Beyoglu, retains its original appearance, the legacy of its 19th century European-influenced architecture.

Here is the second oldest underground railway in Europe, the Tunnel, which is still the shortest in the world. The upper end of the Tunnel marks the beginning of Istiklal Avenue. This is a pedestrian street, except for the old-fashioned tramways that have again been put into service, and it is surrounded by the buildings of foreign missions - former embassies that were converted into consulates in the Republican era.

The Museum of Divan Literature at the Tunnel end of the avenue is housed in a beautiful building that was a Mevlevi Tekke (Dervish monastery) (18th cent.). Halfway on the avenue there is the well-known Galatasaray High School, and across the street the Flower Market with its colorful and charming restaurants and fish and vegetable stands. Cinemas, theaters, cafes, restaurants and bars line the avenue up to Taksim square. The avenue has recovered today its former dazzling, lively, crowded days and nights. A striking monument depicting the national liberation war of the Turks, Ataturk and his friends adorns Taksim square. Beneath the square is the main terminal of the new metro system, and the northern side is occupied by the Ataturk Cultural Center.

The 5-star Hyatt and Intercontinental hotels are located in Taksim Park, and the Istanbul Hilton is nearby. Hilton was the first hotel of this class built in Turkey (1955), and it is still the most famous and the best.

The Radio House, Istanbul Military Museum which is one of the wealthiest museums of this type, Lutfu Kirdar Congress Palace and the Amphitheater are also in this area. To the north, there are the lively Nisantasi and $i§li districts with their small boutiques and numerous painting and art galleries. Further to the north, in Etiler, Akmerkez presents new and varied shopping opportunities. The tall buildings constructed in this area have changed the skyline of the city.

It is an unequaled pleasure to stand on the new Galata Bridge and to watch the majestic and impressive view of Suleymaniye Mosque, one of the most beautiful monumental works in the history of architecture. Across the bridge are the Valide Mosque and Misir Carsisi (Egyptian Market). The market, which was originally reserved for spice merchants, is the second largest and liveliest locality in the city with 100 shops.

Alongside the traditional spices and herbs shops, there are now others dealing in various commodities and dried fruits, and outside the building there are fish, fruit and flower vendors. Regular boat trips run to the Asian shores, Uskudar and Kadikoy, the Bosphorus and the Princes' Islands from the piers next to the bridge. Passers-by always have the chance to enjoy the fish, bread and onion sandwiches sold on the waterfront.

The Sirkeci train station, still remembering the former glorious times of the Orient Express, adorns the Sirkeci Square with its interesting architecture, and the Sepetciler Kasri on the shore serves international reporters as a press center. The office of the Governor of Istanbul is situated on the historical Bab-i Ali Street which climbs uphill from Sirkeci Square.

The quay stretching between Tophane and the Galata Bridge is reserved for tourist ships. Millions of tourists visit the city by boat during the season between April and October. The Top-hane building was reorganized into a gallery to serve the cultural life of the town.

A few kilometers further, the Dolmabahge Palace and Mosque resemble jewelry boxes embellishing the shores of the Bosphorus. On the hill behind the palace rises the 5-star Swiss Hotel. From here, one can Europe. see Uskudar and the Camhca hills on the opposite shore and the beauties of the Topkapi Palace and Hagia Sophia to the west.

The full (30 km) length of the Bosphorus as it winds like a river toward the Black Sea can only be seen from the air. As one travels up the Bosphorus a series of lake-like views unfolds around each bend. The shores are decked with palaces, mosques and waterside residences, and the greenery of the slopes and hills is reflected in the waters. The old fortresses and two modern suspension bridges stand watching these beauties of nature.

White gulls follow white ships. While yachts and ships glide along the dark blue waters, giant oil tankers filled with oil from the Black Sea lands appear like dark ghosts around the promontories, posing serious threats to this incomparable waterway. While the rest of the waters of the Bosphorus glitter at night with reflected lights, the green northern sections are closed to development.

Uskudar is a historical district that has developed as the last stop of the roads from Asia. Beautiful mosques decorate the district that is the shortest passageway to Europe.

The slopes of the £amlica hills are covered with cypresses and new and old cemeteries. Great Camhca Hill is a picnic place and from the park here one can see a vista of the whole city.

A road along the seashore leads to Kadikoy, offering a panorama of Leander's Tower and the majestic works on the peninsula opposite. Some of the characteristic buildings of this area are the Selimiye Barracks (or Florence Nightingale Hospital, as it is better known in the west), which is largest old building in the city, Haydarpasa High School which is now part of a university campus, and the Haydarpasa train station built in a Prussian architectural style.The commercial port facilities of the city line the shore.

According to the myths, Kadikoy was the first settlement in this region. It is a peaceful district known for its typical market, the beautiful Bay of Moda, the park and marinas of Fenerbahge, and the modern Bagdat Avenue. Unfortunately, most of the beautiful old mansions and villas with large gardens that characterized the region have been the victims of excessive development activities. The Princes' Islands still maintain the distinction of being among the principal resorts of the city.

Traveling time to the islands has been shortened by the new catamarans. Horse drawn carriages are the only vehicles allowed there. Summerhouses and well-cared gardens are located near the piers. It is fashionable to take tours on these pine-covered islands in spring and summer, but they are deserted in the winter, although each season has its own beauties. The Princes' Islands are particularly popular for picnics, bathing and yachting at weekends.

ISTANBUL IN THE 21st CENTUARY

The 75th anniversary of the Republic of Turkey was celebrated with great enthusiasm in 1998. The Turkish people, with thousands of years of state experience behind them, embraced in a short time the contemporary life style, which the Republic presented them. They are staunch defenders of the legacy of Atattirk, which is in total harmony with their customs and traditions. After the introduction of the multiparty regime, new development efforts, unparalleled in the history of the country, were launched. The country opened to the world with new ports, marinas and airports, while the ships of the Turkish maritime industry embarked on oceans and its products began to travel to world markets.

Because of the geopolitical importance of Turkey, the military forces are constantly modernized, and the young people of the country are educated using modern technologies. As one of the leading countries in world tourism, Turkey has the newest and most luxurious hotels in the Mediterranean basin. Thanks to the dams constructed on all rivers, significant progress has been achieved in the fields of energy and irrigated farming. A comparison with neighboring countries and other lands in the region clearly shows what Turkey has gained in 75 years of the Republican system.

Istanbul has enjoyed the lion's share of Turkey's progress, and occupies a central place in almost all spheres except for politics.

The city is now getting ready for a new century with comprehensive projects concerning environmental issues, new housing, additions to the subway system, emphasis of sea routes in transportation, and new international congress centers. International talks are continuing in order to eliminate the dangers which the giant ships crossing the Bosphorus pose for the environment. Cultural activities, tourism and commerce will continue to play an important role in the life of the city. Nevertheless, there is still much to be done to solve problems such as population growth, traffic congestion, preventing unauthorized constructions, and conserving the remaining wooden houses. Plans are also being discussed for a third crossing of the Bosphorus.

Istanbul has a colorful and vibrant everyday life that goes on side by side, or under the shadows cast by, the Roman, Byzantine and Turkish monuments, which are constantly repaired and preserved with meticulous care. With 10 million inhabitants out of the national population of 65 million, Istanbul is the most crowded city in Turkey.

It is also the heart of the country with respect to imports and exports, entertainment, culture, education, shopping, tourism and the arts. Over one half of the populace lives on the European side of the city. People living on the Asian part and commuting daily to work use the suspension bridges or ferryboats.

Istanbul has always been a most popular visiting place for travelers and now it is preparing for its rendezvous with the 21st century. Its new ports and marinas facilitate arrival by the sea. For visitors who prefer air travel, the existing modern airport has been enlarged and a second airport is under construction on the Asian side. By a lucky coincidence the maintenance and repair projects realized for the 75th year of the Republic of Turkey in 1998 turned into a blessing for the initiatives to get Istanbul ready for the 21st century.

Istanbul is now a city with adequate supplies of energy, no major infrastructure problems, clean air and seas, unproblematic transportation, a sufficient number of five and four-star hotels, and minimized traffic jams. In addition to the neat covered bazaars, a new development for the city is the large, modern and luxurious shopping malls that include outlets for well-known international brands.

After the dynamic and crowded tourist season that lasts from spring to autumn, it is now becoming fashionable to visit and to shop in Istanbul during the tranquil winter months, particularly due to the sales in such large centers.

Istanbul is becoming even more colorful with expanding social, cultural and commercial activities. In addition to traditional Turkish restaurants, there are now increasingly more new restaurants offering Far Eastern or other specialties, and the latest films are shown in the new cinemas equipped with all comforts. World famous pop stars give concerts in stadiums filled to top capacity; opera, ballet and theater shows continue the year round; internationally renowned orchestras, choirs and jazz masters appear at seasonal festivals; and musical, folk dance and theater shows play to full houses. Such shows take place in historical locations such as Hagia Eirene,There are sufficient numbers of nightclubs, restaurants with live music, discotheques, and bars in Istanbul to satisfy those interested in nightlife. Folk dance groups and belly dancers perform in some nightclubs.

The Liitfu Kirdar International Congress and Exhibition Palace that was reorganized in 1998 has immediately reached full capacity. New and even larger congress halls are under construction. The closed fair areas at international dimensions always attract visitors with their very popular activities.

The heart of the Turkish press beats in Istanbul.

Both the printing facilities of the large dailies and new university campuses are now such large complexes that they can no longer fit into the city fabric and have to move to the outskirts. University, state and private hospitals have attained high standards and can offer international services.

There are sufficient numbers of nightclubs, restaurants with live music, discotheques, and bars in Istanbul to satisfy those interested in nightlife. Folk dance groups and belly dancers perform in some nightclubs.

In the summer months restaurants, clubs and discotheques move to the open locales and their number increases. They are particularly crowded in weekends.